Recorrido por el barrio Butte Aux Cailles

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alegg
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Recomiendo hacer un recorrido por este barrio de París, a todos los que me consultan por “lugares no tan conocidos en la ciudad”.

Butte Aux Cailles tiene mucha historia y ha sido desde siempre un barrio de origen obrero y hasta campesino, pero ahora les puedo asegurar que van a necesitar bastante más presupuesto para comprarse una casa aquí.
Ya no quedan las fábricas que se situaban a las afueras de París, y desde las llegada del metro también se han instalado muchas galerías de arte y artistas de todo tipo, además de restaurantes y bares.
Curiosamente permanece casi invisible a los turistas. Las veces que he venido hasta este barrio prácticamente no me he cruado con ninguno, lo cual es bastante raro, porque realmente es una zona genial para recorrer.




Historia de Butte Aux Cailles

Este barrio se hizo famoso el 21 de noviembre de 1783, cuando el físico Pilatre de Rozier aterrizó su globo de aire caliente entre Moulin Vieux, 25 minutos después de haber salido del Chateau de la Muette.
Fue el pimer vuelo libre tripulado en un globo de aire caliente y alcanzó una altitud de casi 1000 metros.
Además de esa azaña, este barrio fue uno de los primeros en rebelarse contra La Comuna,  y aún conserva un carácter intendiente y algo rebelde, representado por el restaurante Le Temps des Cérises, que ha reunido a muchos anarquistas franceses hasta los años 80.
Otro de los sitios emblématicos de la zona y muy cercano es Le Merle Moqueur, donde se refugió a los partidarios de La Comuna y aún hoy la Association des Amis de la Commune, continúa reuniéndose, además de vender libros.
Además de por ser uno de los bastiones de La Comuna, la Butte aux-Cailles también se hizo famosa por tener las últimas vacas de París hasta casi la primer mitad del siglo 20.

Que ver en Butte Aux Cailles

Lo primero que hay que hacer al llegar es recorrrer sus calles angostas y empedradas llenas de restaurantes locales, cafés y tiendas de arte.
Sus calles principales son la Rue des Cinq Diamants, la Rue de la Butte aux Cailles y Rue Daviel. Pero la  puerta de entrada a del barrio es la Plaza Paul Verlaine
Calles del barrio Butte aux-Cailles

Iglesia de Santa Ana

Esta es la iglesia principal del barrio y tiene unos 100 años.  Durante la I Guerra Mundial sufre los efectos de la explosión de una fábrica de granadas ubicada muy cerca.
Sus vidrieras multicolores que son de principios del siglo XX, algunos de ellos fueron expuestos en la Exposición Universal de Paris de 1937.

Casas Art Nouveau

Hermosas construcciones en la Rue Daviel y las calles adyacentes.

Mercado callejero

Todos los días funciona este mercado que se ubica junto a la parada de metro de Covisart dónde los puestos de fruta alternan con los de ropa y complementos.

Place Paul Verlaine

Una plaza muy bonita con su fuente y rodeada de edificios de arquitectura Art Deco, incluyendo el magnífico edificio de una piscina cubierta




Donde comer en Butte Aux Cailles

Chez Gladines

En este restaurante vamos a poder probar lo mejor de la cocina vasca casera. Pintoresco restaurante, donde se come muy bien y en muy buena cantidad. No saldrás con hambre, eso seguro.

Le Plug in Café

El Plug In poco tiene que ver con los orígenes del barrio, pero es uno de los tantos lugares que han ido transformando un poco el ambiente del barrio.
  • 60 Rue Gérard, 75013 Paris, Francia

Como llegar a Butte Aux Cailles

Con el metro, podemos bajar en la estación de Metro Corvisart (línea 6) y subir la colina por la Rue Cinq Diamants hasta cruzarte con la calle que lleva el nombre del barrio.

Mapa con el recorrido por Butte Aux Cailles

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